How to diagnose your toilet leak like a proper plumber.

You've just noticed a puddle of water next to your toilet. A puddle left by the poor aim of the male members of the household maybe! You wipe it up. You pop back about an hour later and there it is again in exactly the same spot. Must be a leak you think. You rummage in the kitchen cupboard and find an old margarine tub. You place this where the water appeared. You monitor the water level in the tub over the next couple of days whilst contemplating what action to take next. It's not much of a leak after all. Not even worth calling a plumber. Can't actually tell where it's coming from.

What makes identifying a leak on a toilet difficult?

The trouble with toilets is that they have lots of curves and a nice smooth finish. Any small leak can trickle down from above, follow the contours of the pan, and leave a puddle which is no where near the actual leak itself.

I remember a few years back going out to fix a leaking toilet. It was in November and we were just having the first really cold winter weather. Customer showed me the toilet and sure enough it was pretty wet around the base of the toilet. The chap said it seemed to be worse after the toilet had been flushed and especially in the morning. I dried everything off and checked everything on the toilet. I couldn't for the life of me find where it was leaking from. To cut a long (and frustrating) story short in the end it was simply down to condensation. Due to the sudden cold snap the heating had been put up to max and the bathroom was nice and warm. However, each time the toilet was flushed, the cistern was refilling with icy cold mains water. This interaction between the warm and cold was creating heavy condensation on the outside of the cistern and this was trickling down the toilet and pooling on the floor below. Of course this was at its worst in the morning when the water was at its coldest and the heating at its highest. There are ways to reduce condensation forming on toilet cisterns but I'll leave that for a future blog. Lets concentrate on leaks.

Ask yourself some simple questions to help you figure out where the leak is from?

1. Does your toilet leak even when it's not being used?
If your toilet leaks water even when it has just been sitting there without being used (flushed that is) the most likely source of the leak is from the fill valve/ball valve. Either:

• from the union between the valve and the cistern. If there is a dribble from where the valve enters the cistern then it usually just needs the backnut tightening up. You will need to take the cistern lid off and hold the valve while you tighten the nut to ensure the valve doesn't turn as you tighten it. Take care not to overtighten as these backnuts are plastic and can split. 

valve backnut

• from the union between the valve and the incoming water supply. Again it may just need the nut tightening up. More often than not though it will need a new washer (fibre or rubber depending on union type). Just be careful you don't cross-thread when you tighten it back up (believe me this is very easy to do, and any plumber that denies ever cross threading a toilet valve is probably telling porkies!)

isolation valve with fibre washer that fits directly on to the bottom of the toilet valve

Before I go any further I should mention that before you attempt to do any repairs: 

MAKE SURE YOU ISOLATE THE WATER TO YOUR TOILET and EMPTY THE WATER FROM THE CISTERN BY FLUSHING IT (or use a syphon if it can't be flushed). Also have some rags handy to catch any drips.

2. Does your toilet only leak when you flush it?

If a pool of water only appears after you have flushed then there are a few possibilities.

• leaks from the pan connector (the plastic pipe that connects the back of your toilet to the main waste pipe). If it leaks from here it is often because the toilet pan is not properly fixed to the floor. What this means is that every time someone sits on the toilet the pan moves slightly and eventually the seal on the pan connector can work its way loose. I've seen all sorts of attempted repairs on these usually involving lots of silicone, but unfortunately most don't cure the problem (and just look a horrible mess!). Remember, this will be dirty toilet water that is leaking. The best solution is to replace the pan connector and make sure the pan is securely fixed to the floor. If you can't avoid some movement (sometimes a problem with toilets on wooden floors) then you may be best off using a flexible pan connector which will allow for this slight movement without it leaking.

pan connector

• leaks from the donut washer (yes the dreaded donut washer!). If you have a fairly new toilet and it leaks only when you flush then it could be that your donut washer is out of line. The donut washer creates a seal between the cistern and the pan. They can be a right pain in the **** because if they don't create a proper seal you will get water dripping down every time you flush. If you need to replace the donut washer (make sure you get the right size) just take extra care when lowering the cistern onto the pan that everything is lined up and the washer hasn't slipped out of place.

• If your toilet is not a close coupled one then you don't have to worry about donut washers but you may have a flush cone instead. You will find these on low-level and concealed cistern toilets and they create a seal where the flush pipe enters the pan. I find the black rubber ones (below) create a much better seal than the cheaper clear plastic ones.
  

and finally...…

what I have mentioned here are the most common toilet leaks I have come across over the years. There are always other possibilities of course. Like the toilet pan I once went to that had a hairline crack in it (believe me that took me a while to figure out!). Don't even get me started on back to wall and concealed cisterns! I must admit when it comes to toilets, keeping it simple is always best in my eyes.

Remember to also check out my other 'toilet' themed blogs:

Don't get ripped off! How much should you actually pay to get your toilet fixed? 

LEVER or BUTTON - that is the question 

If you live in Derby (or near by) and have a leaking toilet and don't fancy the challenge of fixing it yourself then get in touch. Contact me by phone or email.

Also check out my prices and special 'toilet overhaul offer' on my website.

Gas emergency? Don't panic just follow these steps.

Can you can smell gas? 

or

could you be suffering from the effects of carbon monoxide? (feeling ill - nausea? headaches? dizziness?)

Here's the steps you need to take:

• 1. Call the National Gas Emergency number 0800 111 999 (England/Wales/Scotland).
• 2. Get to fresh air immediately - open all doors and windows to ventilate the area.
• 3. Turn off the gas supply if it is safe to do so at the emergency control valve at the meter unless the meter is located in a basement/cellar or at the LPG bulk tank or storage vessels.
• 4. Do not turn the gas supply on again until it has been checked by a Gas Safe registered engineer.
• 5. Do not operate electrical switches (this includes turning switches on or off). Operating electrical equipment can ignite escaping gas.
• 6. Extinguish all naked flames and do not smoke.
• 7. If you are feeling unwell visit your GP or hospital immediately and inform them that you may have been exposed to carbon monoxide.
• 8. If the attending emergency operative identifies any concern with any gas appliances, follow the advice given concerning use of the equipment and where advised contact a Gas Safe registered engineer to fix the appliance and check for safety.

Initially your gas supply may be capped off by the emergency operative and you will be issued with a certificate outlining the reasons for the action taken. You will then need to contact a Gas Safe engineer who can fix the problem and ensure everything is safe before re-instating the gas.

Where's my stopcock? Don't leave it until it's too late!

You never know when you might get a leak. If you spot a leak you will need to act fast to minimise water damage. Initially you might not know the cause of the leak. For example, it might be a mains water leak; or a leak from your central heating system; or a leak from a waste water pipe. So, your first port of call should be to turn off your mains water at the stopcock until you can assess the situation. 

When I visit homes to do plumbing work I am amazed at how many people don't know the whereabouts of their stopcock. In some instances the customer knows where it is but it is very awkward to access (boxed in or buried under lots of stuff!). I had one a few weeks back where I just could not access the stopcock at all because the kitchen fitter had put new units in the way.

Then there's the other problem. You know the location of the stopcock and it is easily accessible, and you think great. But you go to turn it off and it just doesn't turn as it's jammed, or it turns but doesn't totally shut the water off.

If for any reason you can't turn your stopcock off, you will need to locate the external stopcock (usually under a small metal grid on the pavement in front of your house). These can be a real pain to locate and to turn off - but I'll keep that for a future blog! Anyway, in an emergency you hardly want to start scrabbling about trying to turn the water off in the street!

I remember getting a call at 8pm during that really cold winter back in 2010. An elderly chap said he had water coming through his upstairs ceiling. First thing I told him was to turn his stopcock off. I was at his house well within an hour. Unfortunately, he hadn't been able to locate his stopcock and subsequently the water had caused a huge amount of damage in quite a short time - as well as now being ankle deep in water, it had also got into the electrics and fused everything! So first thing was to isolate the water in the street, then make sure all the electrics were isolated, before finding that the leak was due to a burst pipe in the loft. I fixed the burst, located the internal stopcock (under the kitchen unit plinth!) and then called his daughter. There was no way he would be able to stay in a saturated house, with no heating (I seem to remember it was -5 degrees outside!) and no electricity.

I always remember this incident because I think of how much damage could have been avoided (or at least minimised) if he had been able to turn the water off quickly.

MY TOP TIPS

• locate your stopcock and make sure it is easily accessible.
• test your stopcock every six months to make sure it works. Remember: Clockwise is Closed.
• attach a label to your stopcock with the telephone number of an emergency plumber.

IF YOU GET A LEAK

1. Turn off your mains water at the stopcock.
2. If you know for sure it is a mains water leak, then open all your taps (hot and cold) to drain down the system.
3. Call an emergency plumber.

Most importantly, and this is my main point: don't wait until you have an emergency!

LEVER or BUTTON - that is the question

More new toilets than ever come with a push button flush rather than a lever. Some people do still prefer a lever flush, but I think many would agree that a push button flush is easier to operate.

LEVER or PUSH BUTTON?

                   

What many people don't realise is that they can convert their existing toilet from lever flush to push button (or button to lever if that is what you prefer!).

The reason lever flushes fail or become difficult to operate is down to the syphon inside the cistern - if the diaphragm washer splits then it can take several attempts before you get a successful flush (very frustrating and potentially embarrassing especially if it's not in your own home and you can't flush!).

To fix your flush problem you can of course change the diaphragm washer (only a piece of thin plastic) very easily if you have a multi piece syphon (as below) which comes apart. If you haven't got a washer then you can just make your own by cutting one out of something like a rubble sack.

you can undo the nut and take this syphon apart to renew the diaphragm

a syphon diaphragm washer

Unfortunately if you have a one piece syphon (as below) then you will need to remove the whole syphon from the cistern to get to the washer.

 

a one-piece syphon which will need to be removed to replace the diaphragm washer

If the syphon has to be removed then you can go one of two ways:

1) replace the washer or syphon and keep the lever flush

or

   2) replace the syphon with a drop valve with push button flush

drop valve with push button flush

While we're at it I often recommend to clients that it is worth replacing the fill valve at the same time (makes good sense whilst the water is off and the cistern is drained). That is why I offer customers a great deal of replacing all the internal parts of your toilet cistern for just £80. At least then you have peace of mind in the knowledge that your toilet won't let you down. Check out this great offer on my website www.sjeplumbingderby.com

Too much choice? Advice on choosing kitchen taps.

The kitchen tap is used on average 10 times more every day than the bathroom tap. Choosing the right tap is very important. Here's some guidance to help you.

Question 1 - Do you have one tap hole or two tap holes in your kitchen sink?

If you have one tap hole then you will need to get a mono-mixer tap.

 If you have two tap holes in your sink then you can choose between a pair of pillar taps or a deck-mixer.

Question 2 - Do you want rubber washered (full turn) taps or ceramic disc (quarter turn) taps?

If you have particularly low water pressure then I would go for traditional rubber washered taps. The rubber washer can also be easily and cheaply replaced if your tap starts to drip in the future.

Ceramic disc taps are easier to turn on and off (just quarter of a turn for on and off) so are ideal for the elderly or those with arthritis. The ceramic discs are maintenance free; so if they do start to drip then the whole tap gland needs replacing which is of course more expensive than just replacing a rubber washer and it can sometimes be difficult to source the correct size gland for your tap.

Most manufacturers these days use ceramic glands in their taps, so you will have a greater choice of these than the rubber washer types.

Question 3 - How much do you want to spend?

Remember your kitchen tap is going to get lots of use. In the long run it isn't always economical to get the cheapest taps. There are lots of cheap imports these days (as with everything I suppose!) and you can get a cheap pair of pillar taps for less than £20. You will get a few years out of them before they start to drip, or the spindle gets worn, or the plastic heads split. In which case it's usually just a case of binning them and buying some new ones.

Personally, I always recommend getting a well known, quality brand like Bristan. Their taps are made in the UK (based in Tamworth) and come with a 5 year guarantee. Even if your taps fail after the five years you can give them a call and get the required spare part sent out to you. In the past I have managed to get spare parts for Bristan taps that were over 10 years old. Their advisors are very helpful.

Remember, if your taps are unbranded and made in a factory thousands of miles away the chances are you won't be able to get the required spare part. So although the cheaper taps also come with a guarantee it is difficult to see how this can be honoured.

and finally........
make sure you choose taps that are suitable for your water system. If you have very low pressure (usually your hot tap) then some mono-mixers may not give you a decent flow - so check before you buy!

....and just remember, if you decide to change your own taps, the most difficult part is getting the old ones off! That's where your plumber comes in!

why it's worth paying to get a proper outside tap fitted

You can get outside tap installation kits aimed at the DIY'er for around £15 like the one below:

Although they seem initially cheap, I believe they are a false economy.

Firstly, they use a self-cutting screw to tap into your existing pipework. Believe me these have a tendency to leak. I have been out to a couple of customers this year where a good seal was not achieved and resulted in a leak. Trouble is, you need a nice straight, perfectly round piece of pipe, and then to get the sealing gasket on nice and square. Unfortunately, if you don't get a good seal first time then you might end up cutting out a piece of pipe and replacing it.

Secondly, a hose clip is used to attach the flexible pipe to the valve. I certainly don't like the idea of relying on a hose clip in my home to protect me from a potential flood.

Thirdly, in my opinion these kits are not a long term solution. Eventually you will probably end up replacing it. If you are lucky it might very well last you for years, but you have to remember these kits are made as cheaply as possible. I have replaced a few over the years.

So do yourself a favour and get a proper outside tap fitted. When I fit an outside tap I use copper and brass pipework and fittings, and a lever operated isolation valve with a separate double-check valve. An installation that will give you peace of mind and last for a long time.